Key Trends from Lagos Fashion Week 2024

Lagos Fashion Week 2024 has just wrapped up, and with over 50 designers showcasing both on the main stage and off-site, there were plenty of interesting takeaways. This year’s runway delivered a dynamic fusion of heritage and innovation, showcasing thoughtful craftsmanship and bold statements. From eco-friendly materials to avant-garde silhouettes, here’s a look at the trends that dominated the scene and are poised to shape the next wave of African fashion.

This year’s Lagos Fashion Week beautifully showcased the essence of African fashion, honoring heritage while looking ahead. Each designer’s collection told its own story, but when viewed together, key trends became apparent. Many of these designs will soon be available for purchase, hinting at what could become staple pieces for those who wear and support African fashion.

Prints are a timeless staple of African fashion, but this year brought a fresh perspective. Designers experimented with a variety of print styles color combinations, resulting in standout looks that are hard to forget. From Awa Meite's traditional motifs to Rendol's bold, contemporary patterns, the diversity of prints on display illustrated the rich visual storytelling that defines African fashion. Brands like Ladymaker, Pettre Taylor, Eki Silk, Oya Obeo, Pepper Row and Kokrobitet Institute showcased a variety of prints, seamlessly merging print use with various conventional and non conventional styles.

PRINTS

RAFIA AND STRAW

Sustainability is a core value at Lagos Fashion Week, and it’s expected that many designers would showcase designs with an emphasis on natural, eco-friendly materials. Brands like Eki Kere, known for its use of raffia, led the way as more designers embraced organic materials . Raffia and Straw made appearances in accessories, footwear, and garments, adding earthy textures and an artisanal quality that emphasizes a deep connection to nature. Notable collections from Malité, Cynthia Abila, and Eki Kere beautifully showcased the potential of these materials.

EMBROIDERY

Embroidery emerged as a captivating detail this season, adding richness and texture to every piece it adorned. Intricate stitching brought traditional motifs and abstract patterns to life across various fabrics, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship. From floral designs to bold abstract embroidery, brands like Babayo, Pepper Row, Born Star, and Ejiro Amos Tafiri highlighted the beauty of handwork and the artisanal value it brings to a collection. Many brands used embroidery to highlight quality and detail, elevating what would have been a simple piece sometimes to a new level with embroidery while adding some form of uniqueness to looks.

ASO OKE AND DENIM

The Traditional Aso-Oke fabric and denim both took center stage at Lagos Fashion Week this season, though typically showcased as standalone materials rather than a fusion. Each fabric brought its own distinct appeal, with Aso-Oke used in a variety of ways, showcasing how the heritage-rich material can be used. This was showcased from traditional silhouettes by Hertunba and For Style Sake to non-conventional silhouettes by brands such as Ladymaker, E.S.O by Liman, Emmy Kasbit, Babayo and Cynthia Abila.

Denim was also common and was used in repurposed form by sustainable brands such as Ajanee, Boyedoe and Revival London. It was also used to create contemporary aesthetics by other brands such as Oríré, Pettre Taylor, M.O.T, Ibilola Ogundipe and Bornstar.

KNITWEAR

Knitwear brought visual depth and intrigue to the 2024 Lagos Fashion Week runways, showcasing a range of styles from chunky silhouettes to intricate crochet designs. Numerous brands incorporated knitwear into their collections, with Lila Bare, Bornstar, Pettre Taylor, Kokrobitet Institute, and Cynthia Abila using it in more traditional forms. Meanwhile, designers like Babayo, Cynthia Abila, and Elexiay combined knit with other fabrics to add texture and complexity to their looks. Oshobor’s masquerade-inspired knit designs demonstrated the versatility and creativity possible with knitwear in African fashion.

STRUCTURED SUITING AND STATEMENT JACKETS

Structured suiting and jackets were also common amongst designers with brands like Kente Gentlemen showcasing tailored cut suits, Lila Bare, Bornstar and Pepper Row adding interesting details to traditional suits, as well as alternative takes on suiting silhouettes by Fruche, Emmy Kasbit, Cynthia Abila and Dust of the Earth, and the standout "Coat of many colors" by For Style Sake. Babayo’s use of Aso-Oke in women’s suits added a cultural dimension, while brands like Ladymaker and Lila Bare took jackets to new heights with bold textures and inventive silhouettes.

Asymmetrical designs and unconventional silhouettes offered a refreshing break from traditional cuts. Designers like Fruche, Pettre Taylor, Cynthia Abila, Elexiay and Imad Eduso played with off-balance designs and unexpected shapes, creating looks that felt modern and slightly avant-garde. Wani Fuga's Collection had a number of looks with with unique silhouettes, Iremitide's collection had somewhat classic silhouettes with additions of elements that makes the classic styles slightly different. Designers such as LFJ and Ibilola Ogundipe leaned into fabric use to create silhouettes, while Kadiju, Pettre Taylor, For Style Sake and Fruché all used varying techniques to create outfits that break out of conventional forms.

ASYMMETRY AND OTHER SILHOUETTES

ALTERNATIVE TAKES ON BUBU

In recent years, the popularity of Bubus has soared, with brands like Ejiro Amos Tafiri and Banke Kuku leading the initial surge. This style has become a staple, but there’s been a growing need for a fresh perspective. Ejiro Amos Tafiri delivered this beautifully by adding subtle yet impactful tweaks to the classic silhouette and incorporating material juxtapositions synonymous with the brand. Meanwhile, Hertunba showcased designs that demonstrate an expanded range of materials, breathing new life into the style without altering its iconic shape.

Disclaimer: I do not own any of the images used in this post. Image sources include Wale Adebisi Photography, Lagos Fashion Week, Wanni Fuga, Fashion and Co, Insignaonline, and Sony Alpha Nigeria.